There is a day, there is a night and another day goes by….after weeks back on the road where to start to write report. Report that I am still alive, that even more..I had one of best weeks of my journey… how to put it in the words? Can I? Can I not? How many times I just wanted to be able to froze the moment. To make a package and save it for later. To be able to show, to explain to the people that trust and support me, but still have question Marija why?

So I have one only wish. Bare with me. Take couple of minutes of time. Read.

Yeap I was stucked in Tbilisi for few days longer then I wanted. Life for many people changed in Georgia. Being in city before and after I saw the difference. But I was lucky I was staying with family, who just took me along as their daughter. So the first and only rule we have: Marija you can leave by bus or train or you can stay as long you want and leave by bike when is safer. Parents at home were afraid. The could just see reports on TV and reports from me, which were opposite. I got emails from home to leave the country as soon as possible. I got the emails questioning if I am OK. Yes I was OK. More then that. I had home. I was safe same as people around me. Yeap there were days when we did not know how close to or in the city war will come. Yeap the bomb that had fallen near to airport was loud and it shocked the buildings, like earthquake…. I did not want to leave. Because I am foreign I should leave and Georgian should stay…. Why the nationality matter? I know it is utopia to think about the world without borders, but can we try and make it safer place for all of us. You and me.

So I stayed. And wait for the day that no big army movement was made. I realised to go through city of Gori is history. So I had to change the route. And I have to give in and got mobile for SMS - for family at home and family in Tbilisi. I went southern the morning after the night was bit more peaceful.

6 AM rolling through the centre of the city. It was sooo peaceful. Queit. Few people around. The country had three days of mourning for the people that had to die. (For higher reasons - politics, oil… - how stupid! I do not understand!) I am on bike. Rolling. I am sad. I do not know what is it next for the city. Will the normal life come back soon? Will the madness stop? Will the soldier and friend of family come out of this alive? (He came for two days break, before going back to the front line. He recognised me from TV report just the evening before the war started….We smile. How little…how big…He tolled the fact that serving in Iraq is nothing comparing to this madness. ) Will I be back?

I want and need to cross Georgia by bike. Bike has a magical power to bring out of me and people I met the best out (Most of the time.) So rolling out. I am also happy. I am back on bike. Going west. Slowly, slowly but still.

First towards Manglisi. Road goes up and up. Going to the hills. I pass Kojori, where a lot, a lot of soldiers are around. They stooped me. They are surprised. to see me . My bike. for me to speak Russian. We have nice chat. About my journey. different topic for them. at the end we say castljivi (-have a nice journey with God helps..) - how much those words meant at the moment. I am slow. I am tired. Rest and good good food left results on me. The drivers passing by are surprised but giving me even better support then before.

The daylight is still on. Bu I can not ride anymore. I am too tired. I am low on water…I looked around. There was small building near by. I walked there and around. It is small Church. It is going to be perfect. Sent two SMS out - to two families - home in Slovenia and in Tbilisi. It was peaceful from inside and outside. I need a rest. I can not sleep. Think, think…It feels strange..But I am happy. (Am I normal? To enjoy in moment like that. What is normal?)

Next morning. Around the corner. Old man. Water. Old man going towards the water that is coming down from the hill. So perfect. Good morning - Privjet. I feel a bit uncomfortable…I do not speak Georgian, just Russian. He knows Russian. We spoke. He told me updates from yesterday. He asked wish religion I am. (How many times I am asked what is my religion? How many times people asked me do you believe? How many times people say there is just one God.) nice chat to start the day. road become everything else but road. Gravel. Soft. mostly still uphill. I need to go to the hill. Again the army helicopter fly by low and fast. There are more army trucks and cars on the road. I am biking. the nature around is hilly. I am higher. Around 1500 m.a.s.l.. It is cooler. The are is iess developed. People are mixed of Georgian and Armenian. In afternoon I I was invited for tea and meal at the road counstruction base. Men only. They were nice. They show me around. I drive. Jeep. They are surprised. I love it. At the evening they are talking about sex….blah..blah. I say it loud and clear if we not change the topic I am out and back on the bike. They changed. I do not care. I got out and to my sleep. One more day done.

Next morning up,up,up…to the pass. Forget to think about the road…. It is too soft. Enjoy the area around. Fields…green - yellowish. Fall is coming. It is too dry and too high for the trees. I am invited for the lunch by Armenian. It is simple. Potato. Cheese. Honey. Bread. Sour milk. Water. Coffee. Food is once again amazing tasty. All produced up here. I have yogurt and peanuts from store. We exchanged. Everybody is happy. The kid loved the yogurt from the store and I got sour milk with honey. (..I am addicted to all milk products in Georgia…cheese, yogurt. Thanks God for the fact I am riding the bike.) After the lunch the suggest if I want to ride the horse. I do. Simple answer. For the second time I am riding a horse. What an amazing animal. So elegant. So strong. After a while I have to say good bye. It is time. Once again I got perfect moment to remember. Riding through village. People invite me to stay over night. I say no.

I still do not know how the situation will developed… And till Turkey is couple more days. The afternoon I spend more off the bike then on the bike. I have over 20 falls… When road is soft it is hard to keep the balance. All happened at slow speed. by the evening I made it to Ninosmonda. How happy I am to see the smooth road again. Hard surface. Yupi. Before heading out I am invited to the family to stay for dinner and over night. They are Armenian, with Georgian friend, who is soldier and just came back today and his wife is Russian….

The bike ride goes on.. Riding is nice and easy. I heard about Varzia. On the cross I met two tourists from Czech. It feels great to speak English again. I still have problems with right legs. ( It swollen up, stiffed and painful…) I joined them. Day to take it easy. And exactly how it was. Next morning I got a gift from Tomas. Sleeping bag. I am saved from cold of east Turkey.

Next morning it is time to go towards boarder. I stooped in city if I could use Internet to read the lattes news. Internet is not working, because of war is the answer.

I take a rest in a shade after last city in Georgia… Man come to me. Saying that two years ago for new he hosted a tourist from New Zeland with same bike and big bread…..I start laughing… The tourist was Robert Thomson. So I told the man updates from Roberts life and his crossing China on the skateboard (Check his blog at: www.14degrees.org and be impressed, how far human power can go…) before hitting the road again…. I am smiling. How small is the world… From so many different roads, timing… Georgia is giving me nice moment once again.

I came to last gas station late at the evening. Once again invitation. Stayed with family. Have nice evening…strange night. Man came and wake me up asking for sex….(Same happened in KZ.) Once again I am loud and yield. I hate, hate,hate! Why? He left. My night is over…. In the morning he apologise….. I am out. To the boarder. nobody works till 9 AM…so I have time. I speak to refuges from Cecniya. They are waiting and hoping to have a chance to go to Turkey. They are living in the tent for last two months.

So that was my Georgia ride….on days when none knows what will happened next. When the news from Georgia was still on front pages…

Before it is over and out - thank you Lia & family from Tbilisi for all you have done. I hope and wish once we meet again, that the words we talked about will become reality.

1. MGarage Says:
   September 25th, 2008 at 4:01 pm

   Hi…

   agree…

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