Aralsk 1. Kazahkstan
On the wall of his tomb, prophet Shaikh Akhmed Yassawi (He was poet, mystic and Sufi order, who lived in 12 Th. c. and mausoleum in Turkestan is dedicated to him - second holiest place for Muslim religion.) has this wish:
” When one day you meet a stranger. Do not do him wrong. God does not love people with cruel hearts.”
Those are the words that Kazakhs people still live by, today in 21 st. c. In last days I experienced how hush, hard the nature can be and how amazing are the people on the other side.
Weeks ago, still sitting in Urumqi, China in hotel room I talked to Asmuned about cycling to Aralsk (I was impressed by one photo of the ship on the desert sand that I saw it couple of months ago) in Kazahstan. His reply was;”Are you doing suicide”… However I have not changed my mind. I have interesting understanding of the world impossible…It means challenge for me. I made a choice, that I need to try and see how it goes. (After all the promises I have broken/changed in last months, now I have only one towards myself - listen to yourself. Come home healthy and happy. And enjoy right here, right now.)
Couple of days ago I started to bike out of Qizilorda towards Aralsk. The distance is less then 500 km. Mostly flat. The nature showed me how strong the wind in semi desert can be. (They said it would be hot, nobody said it could be soo windy!) I had experienced two storms - one middle of nowhere and second on I just find a place to hide few minutes before it hit me. The strenght of wind from the side meant I was “dancing” on the road together with the bike..The wind, that was blowing to my face was “killing” me…- mentally and physically. It started to blow 8 AM and did not stoped before 9 PM…Long days on the road… To just continue, to just stay on bike. (Few times I felt down, like I was piece of paper…) Not to cheat. I said I will go to Aralsk by bike. People stopped and offered me a ride. I said no. Hard for them to understand… But they realised that I have my mind set up to be on the bike on the road.
Last three days were the hardest. The distance between the options to fill up with water and to get something to eat become larger. Sign that said it was 70 km to next cafe-gas station was normal. And there I was. Stucked. Not able to do 70 - 80 km in the morning due to the wind. I was naive as well. I though oh well it was just today, tomorrow is another day. Mistake. The wind stayed. Due to heat schedule (It means you wake up 5 AM and ride till 11 AM and then long rest till 6 PM and ride. moving as long you can.. The sleeping hours are short, the days are long…body is tired..(I am not the fittest.)) I started every day early. Being on the road before sun was up. First hour is not nice. Pain. Pain. Time for music. (Music is magic! :)) Talking to myself just keep going. Beside the music, the kms stands are my motivation. How stupid. But it works. I count every one. 10 done, 20 done…Can I do 50 till lunch? Where/What I will eat? I need water. ( On average I drank cca. 6 - 8 litter of water per day.) Where I will find a place to shade? To get off the sun. I am having headaches. Too much sun. Every evening in last couple of weeks, looking straight to the sun coming down. It is beautiful, but also painful. Eyes are itchy. The place is remote. No pollution. No cities…Here and there villages. I passed the place, where they shoot Gagarin to the moon….There is less and less traffic. Road is mostly OK. And there I am. I manage to get to place to eat around 9 AM - I ate, what they offer and filled up-bought water (Water around Aralsk is either not drinkable or a bit salty..) But it is to early to stop. Back on the bike. Bike is heavy. Min. 5 litters of waters on.
Two, three hours in search and hoping that I will find the shade. Sooner or later there is some kind of construction or bus station. Rest for five, six hours… And afternoon. Reality the wind is stronger and all air is heated up. (Wind and me are the weakest combination.) Talking to myself again. Lets roll, lets roll. Think about other things. So I do. I want to cross the border to Slovenia. I want to be home…I try. I am on bike. On flat road. Having no speed. I am slow. I want to get off the wind. I want to ride. I am just pushing. No fun. No game. But pain.
And then it is the story of people. The people that made my last days manageable. They stopped by. They want to talk..They want to take photo….And I use every excuse just not to bike. The questions remain the same. Three of them stands out - being a female. It always changed the look on the face. They are always a bit confused due to handshake and Islam culture that say no contact between man and woman like that. they always ask how my parents allowed me to do this? I am a female. There is always a talk about family. Being solo - if I am not afraid of man and wolf (I had problem with man and yeap wolf did visit me during the night and took my breakfast.) and how they can help me. So in the days that I thought I was short on water and food, I got plenty of it. One couple passed me on other direction couple of days ago, going to the marriage and now they were on mine direction and thinking of me. They stoped and had packaged prepared for me. First we ate and talked together and then they would gave me bread, water and some fruit. Another couple talk to me in the morning and in afternoon they would gave me bread, yogurt and water…Another family was on there long ride to Urals. They had just chips and cookies (Really good Kazahkstan cookies!) and apologised they had no more food. The insist I took the money for the first meal I come to next place. (I have been offer money few times. Usually around 10 EUR. Never except it and then they were even more surprised.:)) Some other would just give me water saying there is never too much of water.
The finish line stay the same. Castljivi puti do doma…. Translation would be god helps you to get home. So little, but it so big. Those moment were the reason I finish the day happy to be.
Every night I am tired and happy at the same moment. I am having sleeping spots middle of nowhere. I can yield, none would hear, I can be silent and hear the small animals.Every nigh is repeat story.Due to the wind, the sky is clear. The clouds are blown apart. The nights are dark. The moon is thin. but there are stars. Million stars hotel. It is amazing. It is clear. I see milky way again. I enjoy every moment before I hit the land of dreams. I appreciate the fact I am here right now. I am impressed by nature.
And as much I experienced the wind I got a visitor the other night. I slept again just on the sleeping pad, with all cloths on (I send my sleeping bag home.) and nights can be a bit chili. so around my head I put the bags and bike..For the wind protection. I sleep for an hour - tent bag moved. I though it was just a wind. I put it back. Couple hours later. Something moved. Near my head. I woke up. Look around. Nothing. nobody. Look back towards bags. My food bag with bread and sweets is gone (Gift from a couple during the day.) I put shoes on and took a flashlight. Did a bit of search around. Saw two eyes looking at me. Small, but still have no idea what it was. I saw it had something in mouth. My bag. My breakfast. Tried to scared it. It run away, but with my bag too…I went back to bike.(In desert it is easy to loose feeling which direction is something…) and sleep in the morning. First thing before daylight. Again wolf. It came back. I scared it. I had no clue how many they were out there. I had no knowledge about them. Once daylight I do a search for my bag. I found it. Sweets are still in. My breakfast is gone. So for this time it was true. The wolf was full, and I was hungry but glad for the new experience.
One more point why I love the remote areas…It is something out there that just amazed me as much the feeling how little I am, how little I know about how the nature works…..I am nobody and nothing.
After days I arrived to Aralsk. Being in the city with no rules and names for half an hour I got invitation. So I am here. Staying with family. In the city that I wanted to see. First hand…how human beings can be stupid….Report of it will follow.
Why the report is a bit jumping one part to another - on my personally diary I have written over 100 pages A5 of moments, thoughts in Kazakhstan. So I just hope that those posts are readable. 
Thank you to everyone that makes this possible. For the people of Kazakhstan I have only one wish - remain who you are.
My next step - taking train to Astana to get visa for Azajberdzan and then to Aktau. It is time to cross the Caspian sea.
Tired. Done. Happy. Marija
July 2nd, 2008 at 5:53 am
Speechless. You paint the picture better than anyone I know.
Well done.
Rob
July 2nd, 2008 at 1:48 pm
STILL FOLLOWING UR STORY….
I’VE BEEN TOUCHED….
MOJCA
July 2nd, 2008 at 2:39 pm
Ojla,
draga moja sestricna, prav zanimivo je brati tvoje vrstice, vcasih me stisne pri srcu ob tvojih besedilih (srecanje z volkovi) a verjamem, da je prav da si na tej poti in zagotovo te varuje On in nasa mati Marija…
zelim ti srecno pot skavtska sestrica in se veselim tvojega prihoda domov:-))
bodi lepo in verjemi da nisi sama na tej poti,
July 5th, 2008 at 12:22 am
Simply astonished by your latest posts… with mouth wide open, eyes staring at the words.
How are your legs doing? I hope you will manage to get home soon and in one piece.
I wish I can hear part of your story personally, I wish you made some meeting with Azub people and/or your fans here in Czech republic.
Every day I dream of riding the world… but something holds me still, doing everyday things, denying my dreams. One day that will change
Keep up crunching kilometers!